Visit the Neka Museum, The Best Art Scene on BaliPrepared by Harold Stephens
Travel Correspondent for Thai Airways International
Almost twenty-four years ago, a great happening took place on Bali. It wasn't the eruption of Mt. Agung nor the cremation of a noble Raja. No, it was an event far more reaching—at least to the art world.
The Indonesian Minister of Education and Culture, Dr Daoed Joesoef, made a special trip to Bali. He came to officially open the Neka Art Museum, which today stands as one of the nation's finest museums, hosting probably the richest collection of paintings in the whole of Bali.
The opening of the museum was the result of years of planning by its founder, Suteja Neka. It was by no means an easy road for a young Balinese born into a family where there was little money or luxury.
Young Suteja had to help support the family—caring for his younger brother and sisters; when he completed his schooling, he took up a teaching career which provided a small but steady contribution.
Poor as they may have been, the family was always surrounded by art. Suteja's father was a sculptor and, in 1960 when he received special recognition for one of his works, an award so inspired the young teacher that Suteja decided to turn his attention to art.
“I have always loved fine things,” Suteja, now 60, told me as we sat in the reception room of his museum in Ubud.
“Of course, I would like to be a painter. Art is my life. But I know I don’t have the talent. So what should I do? I collect. I am a collector.”
He is frank and outspoken. He speaks about the art scene in Bali, waving his arms and shouting out orders to the staff to rearrange the art books on a shelf or to greet visitors.
He couldn't be idle even for a minute and his enthusiasm is infectious.
I had waited 10 years for this chance to talk to him. I was impressed with the flamboyant entrepreneur the first time I met him in Chiang Mai.
He had come to Thailand as a guest of Swiss Artist Theo Meier but, over Theo’s lengthy dinner, I had little chance to talk to him. The dinner turned out to be a banquet, as usual, with dozens of other guests present.
Now, in Bali, Suteja Neka was more at ease and willing to talk about art and the Neka Art museum. He had taken me on a tour through the museum before we sat down to talk and I was overwhelmed at what I saw.
I could now understand why many critics claim the museum to be the best Balinese museum anywhere in the world.
Located on the west side of Ubud, the museum was designed by Neka to encompass a typical Balinese living compound. It has four carved stone buildings connected by walkways and laced with garden. It is unlikely that an artist anywhere could have his work housed in a setting any finer than this.
But visitors soon forget the ground, no matter how inspiring. The paintings first appear as they step beneath a carved lintel and enter the first building. Here, the history of Balinese art is displayed in 433 masterpieces. And what masterpieces! Oils, sketches, water colours, acrylics, wood blocks, lithographs and many other mediums.
The collection features Balinese painters who have worked mainly within indigenous traditions, such as Gusti Nyoman Lempad, Gusti Ketut Kobot, Ida Bagus Made, and Dewa Putu Bedil; also, those who reflect new and contemporary influences like Made Budi, Wayan Bendi, Nyoman Gunarsa, and Made Wianta.
Special attention is paid to other famous Indonesian artists who have been inspired or influenced in their own works by the natural beauty and culture of Bali. These include painters such as Affandi, Dullah, Abdul Aziz, and Srihadi Sudarsono.
An important part of the collection consists of European artists Rudolf Bonnet and Smit, each of who made important contribution to Balinese painting. In addition, there were other foreigners who resided in Bali—Willem Gerard Hofker, Theo Meier, Donald Friend and two who still live there, Antonio Maria Blanco and Han Snel.
“But you had no money,” I said when we seated. “How did you finance a museum worth millions, with art that is irreplaceable?”
Neka admitted it was touch and went in the beginning. Good art is expensive to buy, and what is an art museum without good art? But first things first. He had to walk before he could run.
Neka had noticed that many of the foreigners who began arriving in large numbers in the 1960s were interested in Balinese art. Their interest in things Balinese had a curious effect on the people. The Balinese became inspired and began turning out more art—paintings, carving and crafts. Some of it was good and original. This was when Suteja Neka decided to step in.
On October 22, 1966, he opened his first gallery. He started out on a humble scale with a small shop where he proudly displayed his father's work and some borrowed traditional Balinese paintings. Part time teaching allowed him to put aside a little investment capital. His dedicated wife stood by him and supported his first gallery's efforts.
Neka became commercially involved in selling Balinese paintings but he did it with a special standard of quality, which spurred on the market and lifted it to a new height, and at the same time gave more financial opportunities for Balinese artists.
He commented that his choices of paintings were based on whether the painting had a special quality of its own and could portray a feeling characteristically Balinese.
He looked for originality, spirit and avoided the copiers of works from the big name painters.
The gallery was a success. The name Neka soon became associated with Balinese art. "What I wanted to do," Neka explained, "was to show viewers the development of painting in Bali."
He began collecting special pieces for his museum with this in mind. In 1975 he had the opportunity of going out of the country to broaden his horizons in the art world. Returning home with new inspiration, he concentrated on the museum.
Neka's search for his museum collection was not easy. Some artists were reluctant to sell him their quality pieces though he was willing to pay high retail prices. Only when they understood his sincere interest and dedication to make a documentation of their art he began to gain some cooperation.
In the process of collecting, Neka learned many things about the art market. He enjoys reflecting on a Srihadi painting that he had deliberated on. When he returned the following day to purchase the piece that he had spent the night dreaming about, he found that it had just been sold. “If you have a strong feeling about a painting, don't wait very long or you will regret it,” he said in retrospect.
Neka uses the museum to show how Balinese painting was influenced by foreign artists. In his book The Development of Painting in Bali, he writes: “Developments in painting were not immune from outside influences, particularly from western painting.” He mentions two names in particular—the German painter Walter Spies and the Dutch artist Rudolf Bonnet. Their works can be seen in the museum.
The Neka Museum was officially opened on July 7, 1982, and inaugurated by the Ministry of Education and Culture, Dr. Daoed Joesoef.
The Neka Museum in Ubud is not to be confused with the Neka gallery. The museum is open every day, except on public holidays, from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. The entrance fee is Rp 1000—and is free for children. The Museum has special exhibitions from time to time; works by new artists are often exhibited and, once a year, there is an exhibition for young painters.
Suteja Neka is a remarkable man; but, probably what makes him so special is that he personally knew all the artists, past and present, whose works he has on display. Even more important than their work, Neka holds the secrets to their art. Suteja Neka was a friend to them all.
Next week I will introduce readers to the new Discover Thailand 2006-2007 86-page booklet.
Harold Stephens
Bangkok
E-mail: ROH Weekly Travel (booking@inet.co.th)
Note: The article is the personal view of the writer and does not necessarily reflect the view of Thai Airways International Public Company Limited. | 
